Other selection criteria

Diamond shape.

The shape of the diamond depends, most of the time, on the shape of the rough stone.

The most requested cut on the market is the round one . It can be easily obtained with rough stones, called sawable 1 and sawable 2, that is rough stones of a fairly regular cubic shape. The rough stones of irregular shape, on the other hand, are called makeable 1 and makeable 2 . To obtain a round cut from these stones it is possible to lose more than 65% of the weight of the rough stone; for this reason it is preferable to obtain other kinds of cuts such as pear, oval, marquise and heart from makeable . Finally there are rough stones with a very flat shape called flatsfrom which, 80% of the time, emerald and asscher cuts are obtained .

Cut:
The round shape is the most requested by the market. A round diamond with 58 facets (33 + 25), it has 33 on the crown and 25 on the pavilion. This shape and the arrangement of the facets are designed to maximize the brilliance, sparkle and beauty of a diamond.

Brilliance:
White light reflected through the top of a diamond. If a diamond is cut in the right proportions, there will be greater reflection of light from the facets, resulting in an increase in brilliance.

Bezel:
A bezel at the bottom of a diamond. It is preferable to have a diamond with a medium to small setting. If the setting is large, it gives the impression that there is a hole in the lower part of the stone, due to the scattering of the light. If the bezel is missing, the diamond can be damaged more easily.

Depth:
Equivalent to the height of a diamond measured from the bezel (lower face) to the table (upper face).

Percentage of depth:
Equivalent to the height of a diamond measured from the bezel to the table, divided by the width of the diamond. The percentage of depth is decisive for the brilliance and fire of a diamond. A percentage of depth that is too low or too high will cause a scattering of the light coming out of the stone, with a consequent decrease in sparkle.

Veneer:
The smooth, flat surfaces of a diamond. For example, a round brilliant cut diamond consists of 58 facets, when the bezel is also considered.

Fire:
Colored light reflected by a diamond. White light passing through a stone is separated into the colors of the rainbow just like a prism. A good fire can only be obtained with a cut made to excellent proportions. In commerce, fire is sometimes called “refraction” or more often “dispersion”.

Plate:
The large upper flat facet of a diamond. If the table is too large or too small, the diamond will not be well proportioned, at the expense of fire and brilliance.

Percentage of the table:
Equivalent to the width of the table divided by the total diameter of the diamond. The table percentage is critical to the sparkle and fire of a diamond.

Belt:
Corresponds to the narrow strip around the outer circumference of a diamond. The jeweler usually holds the diamond by the belt. Belts can be rough (they look like frosted) or faceted (smooth like the rest of the diamond).

Pavilion:
The lower half of a diamond, from the lower girdle to the bezel on the lower tip. If the pavilion is too high or too low, light will scatter, resulting in a decrease in focus and brilliance.

Point:
Corresponds to the weight measurement of diamonds. One point equals 1 / 100th of a carat. A diamond that weighs 0.50 carats is said to weigh 50 points. This does not refer to the number of veneers.

Gloss:
A way of classifying the external finish of a stone. The gloss level varies from mediocre to excellent. It is essential to have a good luster to maximize the brilliance of a diamond, but it takes an expert eye to see the difference between various levels of luster. It is normal to have additional veneers to remove part of an irregularity, such as in the case of grainy traces, visible only with the magnifying glass or under the microscope.

Fluorescence:
Coincides with the Sparkle; usually bluish in color, emanating from certain diamonds when exposed to ultraviolet light.

Glitter:
The combination of fire (dispersion) and brilliance. The amount of light that is reflected by a diamond when it is moved. It is sometimes referred to as “scintillation”, especially by old traders.

Symmetry:
A classification of the overall uniformity of a stone’s cut, which can range from poor to excellent. Poor symmetry will affect the sparkle and fire of a diamond due to the reduced light passing through the stone. We only recommend diamonds with a good to very good level of symmetry.

Beware of clarity enhanced diamonds !!!

Clarity enhanced diamonds or laser diamonds are natural diamonds, processed with technological lasers. The principle of clarity enhancement consists in making the natural imperfections of the diamond invisible thanks to a laser processing inside the laboratories. Almost all diamonds have natural internal cracks and imperfections that determine their color and purity. The clarity enhancement process eliminates imperfections by increasing the brightness of the diamond.